Odin’s Restaurant, 27 Devonshire Street, W1G

Odin’s is old school sophistication at its best.  From the outside, its windows are covered head to toe in net curtains creating an anonymous effect, but once inside you are hit by a comforting, drawing room feel. Its plush furnishings invite a relaxing sigh when you first sink into your chair, the walls are absolutely covered head to toe in pieces of art and the various surfaces are adorned with statuettes and lamps. The art is in fact quite a striking collection. Interspersed between large oil portraits and landscapes are modern gems, including a David Hockney.

Odin’s is part of the Langhan’s group of restaurants. Langhan’s Bistro is next door to Odin’s on Devonshire Street, and Langhan’s Brasserie is near Green Park. All three are highly regarded restaurants with their own distinguishing characteristics and faithful regulars. The proximity of Odin’s and Langhan’s Bistro did cause a little confusion at the start of our meal. We were to be a party of three, two of us arrived together at the designated time. After waiting 30 minutes we decided something was amiss, so called the absent member. It transpired that he was next door in Langhan’s Bistro happily sipping a gin and tonic – the bistro had assured him that there was a booking there under the correct name. No harm done, our third diner made the short walk from next door, followed by a waiter carrying his G&T on a tray.

The menu is an interesting mixture of British classics, with some international twists. What you can definitely rely upon is the quality of the produce. We started with a salad of scallops and bacon, smoked salmon and gravadlax. The gravadlax was actually only on the Langhan’s Bistro menu, but having studied this for 30 minutes during his wait in the next door restaurant, this is what the third member of our party fancied. He was about to order the salmon instead, but, all credit to our friendly waiter, it was insisted that they could make the trip next door for this starter. The scallops showcased just how important the quality of the ingredients is to Odin’s. They were enormous, perfectly fresh and seared very lightly so that the soft texture remained.

On to the main course, we had sea bass with balsamic roasted tomatoes, Gressingham duck and liver and bacon (all from the Odin’s menu!). Again, the quality shone through. Both the breast and the leg of the duck were served and it was plump and meaty. The sea bass fillet had a perfectly crisp skin and because it was so thick, the fish maintained a lovely delicate texture. The liver was cooked just as ordered, and accompanied by a meaty sauce.

In addition to the a la carte menu there is a daily roast, on our visit it was lamb, and a number of specialities. The price is set at £33.50 for two courses and £37.50 for three courses. The specialities, such as Dover sole and rib of beef, are charged at a supplement.

At lunchtime, the restaurant was mainly filled with discreet business lunches, but in the evening I imagine that the mood might change as longstanding patrons dine with their families. It is the sort of place that I can envisage being greeted like a long-lost relative once you become a known regular.